David-Lama-In-Pakistan-2 Climbing on the Laserz south-west face in East Tyrol (© Peter Ortner)

With the Alps providing limited challenges for him, freeclimber David Lama is heading off to Pakistan and a series of mountains that will really test his mettle...

Last year, when travelling to the Kashmir Himalayas with Stef Siegrist and Denis Burdet, it became apparent that the potential of big and appealing projects in the Alps would soon be limited for me.

Ever since I have turned my passion towards alpine climbing, I was inspired by the obvious and logical lines through big walls. Finding the hardest line in a tall face was never my goal, I have always been in search of walls, where the easiest way up is already a borderline challenge. 

null© Rainer Eder – ASP Red Bull

This year, my partner Peter Ortner and I have set our sights on two stunning peaks on the Baltoro glacier. Firstly we want to attempt to climb the Trango Tower (6,239 meters/20,500ft above sea level), a free-standing granite spike that rises 1,000m/3,300ft from the ground. Afterwards, we plan to expend our high altitude experience on the Chogolisa (7,665m/25,000ft above sea level).

null© Corey Rich – Mammut Archiv

The last weeks before the departure have been pretty stressful. First of all, the whole expedition had to be planned in detail, equipment had to be organized and permits had to be taken care of. Secondly I wanted to take off in good shape, so I tried to make use of the spare time to climb in the surroundings of the Geraer hut, the Kalkkögeln and in the Dolomites of East Tyrol.

Yesterday, Peter and I finally arrived at Skardu coming from Islamabad. Even though the big mountains are still a couple of hiking days away, I feel that there are six exciting weeks ahead of us…

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